This old-world Italian spot—a Brooklyn Heights institution since 1936—shuttered briefly in 2009 to make way for a short-lived fast-food franchise. Armando’s is now back in business, but despite a recent redesign (newly upholstered banquettes, updated artwork), the food still seems stuck in the past. An overcooked meatball marinara appetizer featured gummy meat and bland, generic sauce, and a grilled octopus salad was served with an overwhelming excess of salty olives and capers. Orecchiette with broccoli rabe and sausage was better, with pleasantly bitter greens and spicy, fennel-heavy pork, but even that success felt a little staid. We’re all for classic restaurants, but without a little 21st-century panache, this one could soon be extinct.
Armando’s Restaurant and Bar
|Venue name:||Armando’s Restaurant and Bar||Contact:|
43 Montague St
|Cross street:||between Clinton and Henry Sts|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu, Sun 11:30am–11pm; Fri, Sat 11:30am–midnight|
|Transport:||Subway: R to Court St; 2, 3, 4, 5 to Borough Hall|
|Price:||Average main course: $16. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V|