Bar Breton (CLOSED)

Located in the restaurant-starved area near the Empire State Building is this relative newcomer from chef-owner Cyril Renaud (of the late Fleur de Sel). With a little bit of guesswork, you can ascertain Bar Breton’s specialty: The casual yet quaint French eatery touts the buckwheat crpes (or in regional parlance, galettes) that Brittany is known for. We savored a classic version—an egg with Gruyre and Black Forest ham, folded so that the glossy yolk peeks seductively out—and made sure to wash it down with that other Breton delicacy, hard cider. Served the traditional way in ceramic cups, a bottle is a bargain—ranging from $15 to $34. Though the delicate yet robustly flavored cakes (made from organic flour) get top billing, the menu is extensive, and there is much to enjoy. An appetizer that was recently retired (we hope it returns) of sardines escabche featured succulent fillets presented as tiny roulades, with a dab of aioli on each and a bracing cornichon vinaigrette. Another success was the duck confit salad: Romaine lettuce with bits of duck flesh, fat and skin folded in. Renaud is a chef of considerable talents, and his classical training is evident with the beef bourguignonne, an elegant rendition with cubed tender beef and winter vegetables coated in a shiny demi-glace. The setting can easily transition from breakfast to dinner: Booths line one wall; a metal-topped bar can seat about a dozen; and the decor, with fabric lamp shades and butter-toned paint, is soft without being girly. (Tough for a crpe place.) The pancakes also figure on the dessert menu, with a lemon-sugar version made with white flour—tasty, and just what you’d expect. We strayed toward the non-galette sweets—and were rewarded—with a memorable pot de lait with toasty chicory gele. You could eat just crpes at Bar Breton, but that would be limiting.