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Best big-pimpin' Brooklyn: Blanca

RECOMMENDED: Food & Drink Awards 2013 Kings County, scrappy capital of diamond-in-the-rough restaurants, got a taste of epicurean bling when...

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Wagyu with vincotto, hearts of palm and Sun Gold tomato at Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Glass shrimp with poppy seeds and celery juice at Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Geoduck with Tuscan melon and sea lettuce at Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Veal sweetbread with lime at Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Celtuce with kefir, kumquat and tuna flake at Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Garganelli with goat ragu at Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Nduja raviolo at Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

New potato with buttermilk, sweet potato leaf and watercress at Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Duck with porcini and currants at Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Beach rose gelato at Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Watermelon radish with sour gummy and macadamia nut at Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Chef Carlo Mirarchi at Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Sasso chicken at Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Blanca

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Blanca

RECOMMENDED: Food & Drink Awards 2013

Kings County, scrappy capital of diamond-in-the-rough restaurants, got a taste of epicurean bling when this chef’s counter seemed to appear out of nowhere. Chef Carlo Mirarchi’s swaggering showcase—the spare, lofty space hidden, like a Bond villain’s lair, in the concrete yard behind Roberta’s—served some of New York’s priciest high-concept cooking to just 12 flush diners a night. The cost of admission—$180 just to walk through the door—had a certain self-selecting effect. But the few food-mad young Bushwick homesteaders who saved up their nickels for the full three-hour meal got real bang for their Benjamins, in 20-odd courses of tweezer-plated perfection (a plump raviolo bursting with molten nduja, wisps of sweet potato set off with buttermilk and watercress tendrils), prepared, in a banker’s dream kitchen, by one of the city’s most naturally talented chefs. Blanca,261 Moore St at Bogart St, Bushwick, Brooklyn (347-799-2807, blancanyc.com)

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