Best dim sum provocateur: RedFarm

New York has a long lineage of Chinese restaurants, from midtown’s swank stalwarts to the regional bastions of Flushing and thousands of humdrum joints...

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Photograph: Virginia Rollison

Shrimp-and-snowpea-leaf dumplings at RedFarm

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Photograph: Virginia Rollison
Steamed lobster dumplings at RedFarm
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Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nels

Pac-Man dumplings at RedFarm

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Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nels

Duck noodles at RedFarm

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Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nels

Rib eye at RedFarm

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Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelson

Shumai shooters at RedFarm

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Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelson

Stir-fried black cod at RedFarm

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Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nels

RedFarm

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Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nels

RedFarm

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Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nels

RedFarm

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Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nels

RedFarm

New York has a long lineage of Chinese restaurants, from midtown’s swank stalwarts to the regional bastions of Flushing and thousands of humdrum joints in between. But restaurateur Ed Schoenfeld and chef Joe Ng, the Don King and Muhammad Ali of dim sum, blasted open the takeout box this year by bringing farm-to-table zeal to bear upon the ancient cuisine. The pair broke new ground, trotting out succulent dumplings and variations on other dim sum standards alongside nouveau creations like pastrami-stuffed egg rolls and miso-glazed filet mignon in crispy tartlet shells. Schoenfeld packed his communal wood tables with a crowd of food-world dignitaries, proving that China’s centuries-old eats could be as thrilling as any New Nordic maverick. RedFarm, 529 Hudson St between Charles and W 10th Sts (212-792-9700, redfarmnyc.com)

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