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  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    100bestFriesbestfries17

    Disco fries at St. Anselm Jersey

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

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    Sweet Bao fries at Baohaus

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

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    Salt-and-pepper fries at Thistle Hill Tavern

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

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    Chickpea fries at Peacefood Cafe

Photograph: Virginia Rollison

100bestFriesbestfries17

Disco fries at St. Anselm Jersey

Sweet Bao fries at Baohaus
The pillowy bread that chef-owner Eddie Huang uses for his steamed pork buns enjoys a sweet second life as dessert. A dunk in hot oil makes chunks of the spongy stuff crisp on the outside and pull-apart soft within. The fries are served with thick sauces made from black sesame and taro. 137 Rivington St between Norfolk and Suffolk Sts (646-684-3835, baohausnyc.com). $3.50.

Chickpea fries at Peacefood Cafe
Potatoes make way for chickpeas at this uptown vegan eatery. Cumin, chili, cinnamon and cardamom season the mashed garbanzos, which are sliced into bars, cooked in a vegan chickpea broth and served with a piquant fermented-bean-curd sauce. 460 Amsterdam Ave at 82nd St (212-362-2266, peacefoodcafe.com). $7.

Disco fries at St. Anselm
Jersey purists might roll their eyes at the substitution of house-made ricotta for mozzarella in this update of the diner classic, but the bespoke cheese gives a tangy lift to St. Anselm's mound of tender fries slathered in chicken-and-pork-stock gravy. 355 Metropolitan Ave between Havemeyer and Roebling Sts, Williamsburg, Brooklyn (718-384-5054). $4.

Salt-and-pepper fries at Thistle Hill Tavern
Chef Rebecca Weitzman doesn't overthink these Idaho spuds—a shower of sea salt, kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper brings them to life, while a side of house-made Roma-tomato ketchup offers a subtle Mediterranean twist. 441 Seventh Ave at 15th St, Park Slope, Brooklyn (347-599-1262, thistlehillbrooklyn.com). $4.

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Fuego Grande
Fuego Grande

Chickpea fries at Peacefood Cafe - I don't consider myself an expert in Vegan cuisine, but I wold have thought that potatoes would on the check list. In any case, this vegan cafe has done a fine job substituting chick peas for spuds. A flavorful and spicy dish that has just enough crunch to pass in the fry category. More a fritter bar than a fry, but this would be a great side anywhere. If I could change anything, I would make them skinnier. That way you get more crunch and then dry chickpea mix does not overwhelm. Beyond this dish, the soup was excellent but the sandwich suffered from classic vegan flavor strain and the bread was flat. (Not flatbread, that would have been preferable). Spelt = pelt.