Bistro Ten 18

Restaurants in this part of town tend to draw Columbia-affiliated locals. Some of the food at this low-lit American bistro, though, is worthy of a trip. The pan-roasted chicken might not start an uptown stampede, but the accompanying rich, salty mashed potatoes and lavishly buttered spinach elevate the dish from decent to exceptional. The rack of lamb is excellent, and the five meaty little chops, cooked to perfection, get a touch of lively relish of mint and cilantro. The blackberry crisp à la mode fails as a crisp but excels if regarded as vanilla ice cream sauced with bracingly tart molten fruit.