While New York's steakhouse stalwarts (Keens, Peter Luger) remain staunchly true to their original forms, today's newer meat meccas have redefined the boundaries of the genre. From glitzy extravagance (and Bieber appearances) at Bowery Meat Company to laidback fun (and $19 cuts) at Quality Eats, it's clear there's no one way to cut that cake. For their take on the trope, European proprietors Emir Muhic and Gigi Dzidzovic (DiWine) adopt the meet-in-the-middle approach, taking over the first three floors of a renovated 1920s-era brownstone with a contemporary-minded restaurant that also channels the building's old-time grace with gray-stained wood panels, sleek marble counters and a working fireplace.
In the 132-seat space, diners can settle elegant Windsor-style chairs for an array of traditional and creative starters, as well as seven cuts of steak—all tag-teamed by co-chefs Russell Rosenberg (the Boathouse) and Dusan Celic (DiWine). A crab cake ($22), garnished with marinated jicama, apple salad and remoulade was wonderful—you’ll fight over the last bite. The jumbo shrimp cocktail ($18) featured plump, finger-long crustaceans served over ice, the cocktail sauce fiery from just enough horseradish.
Of course, if you’re at a steakhouse, you’re going to go for the beef (why bother if not?). A gargantuan ribeye ($49) arrives at the table still sizzling, flanked by béarnaise and peppercorn sauces. The well-seasoned cut is perfectly cooked, so the sauces are gilding the lily. You don’t need them, but as you’re dunking away, you’ll find they’re nice to have. Standard sides like creamed spinach and grain potatoes are delightful—silky, creamy and the perfect complement to a steak. Not into red meat? Try the black sea bass ($39). Sautéed and served with celeriac, lobster, wild mushrooms and pinot noir jus, it is an answer for the meet-averse, though it can arrive slightly overseasoned. Room for dessert? A tart slice of key lime pie ($12) is a slightly more refreshing end to a heavy meal, while a cheesecake infused with sour cream ($12) continues the decadence.
Service is deliberate but non-intimidating—friendly servers give plenty of space between courses and for catching up with dinner companions. The dining room chatter can get a little loud (acoustic problems, we're sure), but with the feast-worthy spreads at Blu on Park, you won’t be talking much anyway.
BY: COMMUNITY REVIEWER LINDSAY DENNINGER