Café el Portal (CLOSED)

Some of chic Elizabeth Street’s best food comes from this teeny alcove run by Ignacio Carballido, whose hardworking mother rules the kitchen. One smoky special includes chiles rellenos (roasted poblano chilies stuffed with cheese in a light cream sauce). Other delights are a juicy chicken thigh and drumstick swimming in rich mole, and moist chunks of fish filling two soft corn tortillas. Mexican beers are available, as is the authentic Michelada—Corona in a glass with salt, lime and hot sauce. This is also one of the few places in town that serves fresh cucumber water, a traditional blend of cukes, sugar, water and lime juice.