Chance seems to have been driven by design: First, come up with a snappy name (China+France=Chance). Then, overhaul a bodega and turn it into an angular open space that stands out on Smith Street’s overloaded restaurant row. Fill it with comely, black-clad waitpeople. Oh, and serve some food. Instead of Sino-Gallic fusion, the menu sticks with a separate-but-equal concept, serving well-executed, artfully composed plates of rack of lamb or scallops in xo sauce. Peking duck is crisp and moist in
all the right places, its wrappers and condiments neatly compartmentalized. Best of all is a ramekin of piping-hot, made-to-order chocolate soufflé.