Chef Vola’s

Though this hidden dining room in a private home has become accessible to the public, it’s tough to score a reservation without a referral (ask your concierge). Be prepared for long waits and tight quarters, but the fish, pastas and luminous sauces render these inconveniences trivial. You’ll need to bring your own wine, and no matter how much you consume, don’t miss house-made desserts like ricotta cheesecake so light, it practically levitates.