City Lobster

Pity the crustaceans that give their lives each night at this chintzy surf-and-turf clunker. The menu covers a lot of ground—skipping from New England (thin, watery clam chowder) to Asia (touches like crispy wontons with a wan tuna tartare starter). Steaks are large, but short on richness and flavor, and lobsters can be stuffed, flambéed or grilled to your liking. Our rubbery beast arrived oddly battered and fried in its shell, and served with a mess of garlic and red chili flakes that added little to the bland, overcooked meat. That preparation, we were told, is called “angry”—which is just how we felt when settling the bill.