Dong Yi Feng

Critics' pick
1/4
Photograph: Todd Coleman
Pan-fried leek dumplings at Dong Yi Feng
2/4
Photograph: Todd Coleman
Glutinous rice balls at Dong Yi Feng
3/4
Photograph: Todd Coleman
Deep-fried crullers at Dong Yi Feng
4/4
Photograph: Todd Coleman

Dong Yi Feng

Queens
The name of this bi-level Flushing establishment roughly translates to “good kitchen,” and it’s fitting, given the solid, if unadventurous, choices available in its dining rooms. Filling a gap in the market for slowpoke souls who can’t handle hard-nosed steamer hustling, things move at a sedate pace, as cart pushers willingly linger tableside and offer advice to deliberating diners, many of them longtime regulars. Considered choices yield results like deep-fried crullers (zhaliang), packed with sautéed bean sprouts and carrots and wrapped in soft rice noodles, making them at once juicy, crunchy and tender. Chunks of daikon in the pan-fried leek dumplings (jiu cai bao) add an unusual crunch and radishy tang that bites through the thick golden crust. Even the simple glutinous rice balls (jian dui), usually an afterthought, have extra-generous globs of nutty lotus-paste filling.
Venue name: Dong Yi Feng
Contact:
Address: 135-29 37th Ave
NY
11354
Cross street: between Main and Prince Sts
Opening hours: Daily 9am–11pm
Transport: Subway: 7 to Flushing–Main St
Price: Average dim sum: $3. MC, V
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