The second half of the name misleads because the menu sails far from Shanghai. But the “Evergreen” part is right on; the place is reliable and consistent. Dishes arrive speedily, and the flavors are as straightforward as the decor. Still, a mapo tofu stew deftly balances the tofu’s smoothness with a bite of chili oil and black pepper. The kitchen can be heavy-handed with oil, particularly in a gluten stir-fry that nonetheless retains the sweet crunch of its cucumberlike loofah (a.k.a. the bath sponge). Gingery Lion’s Head meatballs and a ginger-scallion sablefish will be better if you ask your waiter to curb the oil. Eight Jewel sticky rice, topped with roasted pumpkin seeds, is a nice cap to the meal.
|Venue name:||Evergreen Shanghai||Contact:|
10 E 38th St
|Cross street:||between Fifth and Madison Aves|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Fri 11am–10pm; Sat 11:30am–10pm|
|Transport:||Subway: B, D, F, V to 42nd St–Bryant Park; 7 to Fifth Ave|
|Price:||Average main course: $13. AmEx, MC, V|