Evergreen Shanghai

Midtown
The second half of the name misleads because the menu sails far from Shanghai. But the “Evergreen” part is right on; the place is reliable and consistent. Dishes arrive speedily, and the flavors are as straightforward as the decor. Still, a mapo tofu stew deftly balances the tofu’s smoothness with a bite of chili oil and black pepper. The kitchen can be heavy-handed with oil, particularly in a gluten stir-fry that nonetheless retains the sweet crunch of its cucumberlike loofah (a.k.a. the bath sponge). Gingery Lion’s Head meatballs and a ginger-scallion sablefish will be better if you ask your waiter to curb the oil. Eight Jewel sticky rice, topped with roasted pumpkin seeds, is a nice cap to the meal.
Venue name: Evergreen Shanghai
Contact:
Address: 10 E 38th St
New York
10016
Cross street: between Fifth and Madison Aves
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 11am–10pm; Sat 11:30am–10pm
Transport: Subway: B, D, F, V to 42nd St–Bryant Park; 7 to Fifth Ave
Price: Average main course: $13. AmEx, MC, V
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