Genting Palace (CLOSED)

A gentle retreat from the Resorts World Casino’s slot-machine light show, this cushy joint has been lulling the gambling weary since 2011 with soothingly fluffy carpets, melodious Muzak and what seems to be the only easy access to fresh air in the entire complex: windows opening onto a seasonal terrace. Overeager staffers race to pamper, promptly offering forks to those who flinch at chopsticks and inquiring about allergies with the air of attending physicians. The menu hews to traditional fare (shark-fin dumplings, rice-noodle wraps), with a few notable exceptions. Black and white pearl dumplings (zhenzhu shumai), a yin-yang set of shrimp-paste balls coated in shelled (white) and unshelled (black) glutinous rice grains, have an earthy, sweet flavor and satisfying chewiness. Seafood crystal buns (shui jing bao)—a recent addition to the menu—are summery pockets of shrimp, scallops and sweet jicama. The braised chicken feet (shizhi fung zao) in black-bean sauce are so tender, they can challenge even the most deft chopstick wielder. Equally tricky (and best nabbed with fingers) are the baked durian puffs (ju liulian su)—the famously odorous fruit is muffled, in gracious Genting fashion, by a lining of sweet taro in crumbly bird’s-nest pastry.