Dignified patrons greet the host in Italian or French, then offer cheeks for kissing before being asked, “Your usual table?” If you’re not a frequent diner, be prepared for service that is a little haughty. But the food will make you aspire to become a regular. Who wouldn’t want to return after a swooningly delicious appetizer of polenta with Italian cheese? Or the succulent galletto ruspante al mattone (Cornish game hen with peppercorns) and veal scaloppine with fresh tomato, capers and pâté of black olive? At meal’s end, cookies arrive on the house—for old-timers and novices alike.
151 E 82nd St
|Cross street:||between Lexington and Third Aves|
|Opening hours:||Daily noon–3pm, 5:30pm–midnight|
|Transport:||Subway: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $21. AmEx, Disc, MC, V|