Gus’ Place (CLOSED)

The 2006 reincarnation of Gus’ Place may lack the space and blue-and-white Aegean elegance of its former Waverly Place self, but the cuisine has never tasted so wonderfully, elegantly Greek. Amid the warm country ambience inflected with homey touches like vintage black-and-white family photos from Greece, you can happily make a meal of small plates like prasopita (leek, fennel and feta pie), zucchini fritters, shrimp-and-cod cakes and steamed mussels. Each dish seems to trump the next—but tempting entrées, such as a piping-hot Greek fish stew in a saffron-and-fennel broth, may make that unlikely.