This disappointing cafeteria-style joint, from the team that helped usher in the city’s barbecue craze at Hill Country, puts a corporate spin on the fried chicken trend. Two types of bird are available: The crunchier version features skinless pieces in a brittle batter that falls off in shingles; the “Hill Country Classic” skin-on alternative—buttermilk-brined and simply dusted in flour—is a better bet. Still, neither variety, sitting idle under heat lamps, is a match for the top-shelf fried fowl available elsewhere, and the potluck sides (sticky corn salad and cheesy mashed fried potatoes) might just as well have been cooked by Betty Draper—after she’d fired the maid.
Hill Country Chicken
|Venue name:||Hill Country Chicken||Contact:|
|Cross street:||at 25th St|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu, Sun noon–10pm; Fri, Sat noon–11pm|
|Transport:||Subway: N, R to 23rd St|
|Price:||Average main course: $12. AmEx, Disc, MC, V|