Although still an owner, Jean-Georges Vongerichten no longer mans the burners at this UES townhouse—and it sometimes shows. Much of the fare is solid, but little more: mushroom ravioli comes with a pasty pierogi-like dumpling wrapper; soft, fatty sirloin is just saved by a (brilliant) wine-infused chopped mushroom sauce. But flashes of excellence remain, such as a strawberry-topped crème brûlée. Reasonable prices, meanwhile, translate into impressive bang-for-the-buck, as in a bowl of vibrantly fresh pea soup or a half-chicken shelled in delicious sweet ginger. And with plenty of affordable wines to wash everything down, Vongerichten, despite his absence from the kitchen, has found a way to make his stable’s steed still compelling.
160 E 64th St
|Cross street:||between Lexington and Third Aves|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu 11:30am–4pm, 5:30–10:30 pm; Fri 11:30am–4pm, 5:30–11pm; Sat noon–2:30pm, 5:30–11pm; Sun noon–2:30pm, 5:30–10pm|
|Transport:||Subway: F to Lexington Ave–63rd St|
|Price:||Average main course: $27. AmEx, MC, V, Disc, DC|