Think ceviche, and Peru usually comes to mind. But the neon pink CEVICHERIA sign in the window of this snug Mexican small-plates eatery is evidence of the popularity of acid-cured fish throughout much of Latin America. It’s worth ordering the signature dish, though we suggest trying only one of the versions, since the basic preparation remains essentially the same: Your choice of protein (snapper, scallops, shrimp or mushroom) comes tossed in a bright mixture of lime juice and finely diced tomatoes, onion and cilantro, almost like a seafood-studded pico de gallo. While this menu redundancy is somewhat limiting, there are enough other options from the tiny open kitchen to round out a meal. A juicy-if-bland shrimp taco came with four plump crustaceans, black beans and avocado; two types of pleasantly floury empanadas were stuffed with melted cheese, corn kernels and poblano peppers, and with shredded chicken with a slightly sweet mole sauce; and a surprisingly successful tostada supported a thin layer of minced raw tuna with a light chipotle mayonnaise. Our favorite of the traditional desserts was a moist tres leches cake, though soupy rice pudding tasted like preboiled grains doused with cream. If we have a major complaint about La Barra, it’s that very few dishes were particularly special (one rare standout was the guacamole, a winningly simple, tomato-free rendition). Still, it’s a fine place for a quick bite, especially taking into account its thoughtful BYO setup: Select an affordable bottle from the wine list, and someone from a nearby store delivers it to you minutes later. Retail prices with tableside service? Now that’s something special.
|Venue name:||La Barra Cevicheria||Contact:|
250 Broome St
|Cross street:||between Ludlow and Orchard Sts|
|Opening hours:||Mon 6:30pm–1am; Tue–Sat 12:30–3pm, 6:30pm–1am|
|Transport:||Subway: F to Delancey St; J, M, Z to Delancey–Essex Sts|
|Price:||Average small plate: $7. MC, V|
|Do you own this business?|