Lima’s Taste

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Photograph: Jorge Sarmiento
Lima's Taste
West Village

There’s not much to recommend at this Peruvian addition to a gastronomically challenged West Village block. An offshoot of an East Village spot, the restaurant serves clunky home cooking in a baroque dining room where heavy wood chairs are oddly accented by a flat-screen TV. Painfully slow service adds nothing to dishes that taste like Incan fast food. Appetizers include a long list of ceviches, a Peruvian staple. But the portions here are too large, and those we tried left a funky aftertaste. Main courses fared no better. The escabeche chicken was a pounded breast cooked bone-dry and slathered in cloyingly sweet pepper-vinegar sauce. Sudado, made with a whole mystery fish-of-the-day, is a big tender mess that’s steamed in beer and then showered with tomatoes and onions. The chef seems to think that parsley, generously sprinkled, might save the food. He’s wrong.

Venue name: Lima’s Taste
Contact:
Address: 122 Christopher St
New York
10009-37
Cross street: at Bedford St
Opening hours: Daily noon–midnight
Transport: Subway: 1 to Christopher St–Sheridan Sq
Price: Average main course: $14. MC, V
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