Waiters at Gordon Ramsay’s glimmering modern space at the London Hotel, with leather banquettes the shade of faded denim and an inviting chrome-accented bar, might recommend ordering four small plates from the menu, but three serve well, tantalizing your palate and only slightly sparing your wallet. A beet-and-ricotta dish is a stunning quartet of wafer-thin beet slices crowned with clouds of soft cheese. Another visually arresting plate contrasts the pinkness of nearly raw salmon with bright yellow scrambled eggs and black caviar. In a hat’s-off to the host country, dessert brings forth a PB & J with a satiny peanut butter semifreddo, cherry jam and cherry sorbet. The biggest surprise of all: Chef Ramsay is occasionally spotted in the house.
The London NYC Hotel, 151 W 54th St
|Cross street:||between Sixth and Seventh Aves|
|Opening hours:||Daily noon–2pm, 5:30–10:30pm|
|Transport:||Subway: F to 57th St|
|Price:||Average small plate: $16; four-course prix fixe $55; six-course prix-fixe $75. AmEx, MC, V|