Michael White's pasta primer

Three noodles to know before you go to Osteria Morini.

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  • Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelson

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    Creste noodles

  • Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelson

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    Gramigha noodles

  • Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelson

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    Stracci noodles

Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelson

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Creste noodles

Gramigna


These curly, tubular noodles—whose name translates to "weed"—were one of the first pastas White encountered on his inaugural trip to Italy. He serves them here as Bolognese mothers do: con salsiccia—in a meaty sausage rag.

Stracci


These hand-cut pasta "rags" bear a resemblance to lasagna, hence their other moniker: lasaganette. White invokes the stacked noodle dish by layering the squat rectangles free-form, with wild-mushroom sauce and Parmesan.

Creste


Ruffled edges that evoke a rooster's cockscomb—or crest—give these macaroni their name. The wavy texture helps the pasta absorb and capture sauce, like the one made with mussels, shrimp and scallops at Morini.

See restaurant review for Osteria Morini

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