Beacon (CLOSED)

Anyone with a typical New York–sized stove will be in awe of the massive wood-burning oven in Beacon’s open kitchen. Chef-owner Waldy Malouf grills and roasts nearly everything on his menu, from meaty T-bones to salads. Seasonal specials might include roasted lamb with mint and fava beans. Regular dishes are just as satisfying. Chewy baby octopus and squid with crisp, blackened tentacles rest on a bed of wilted arugula and spinach, surrounded by tender gigante beans, mint and grape tomatoes. Woodsy roasted-mushroom ravioli swim in a broth topped with Parmesan. Even the desserts, such as the strawberry shortcake with white-chocolate mousse, are wood-roasted. As befits the he-man cooking techniques, the multilevel dining room is all classy-guy decor: clean lines, wood tones and Frank Lloyd Wright–style stained-glass lamps.