Description
If you’re looking to break out of your chardonnay rut, there are few better places to go than here, where you can sample more than 100 wines by the glass (or 2,000 by the bottles), either in the outside café overlooking Rockefeller Plaza or inside on curvy banquettes. Unfortunately, the dinner menu, which looks great on paper, isn’t always worthy of a pairing. In the middle of a summer heat wave, the menu was loaded down with heavy, wintery food: duck-confit risotto, veal cheeks with chive spaetzle, a caramelized onion tart blanketed with a thick, pizza-like layer of Gruyère cheese. Meanwhile, the summery dishes that seemed designed to show off the best of the season suffered from lackluster produce. Luckily, the appetizers can be assembled into a wine-friendly meal of small plates, including a “flight” of assorted seafood tartares (tuna, salmon, yellowtail and scallop), a foie gras terrine, and a selection of artisanal cheeses and charcuterie.