Southwestern style had its moment in the ’90s, but interest in the cuisine—a mishmash of South American and New Mexican culinary traditions—has largely waned. Stuccoed, arch-ceilinged Mojave does not signal a revival. Our lackluster meal included soggy chipotle chicken wings with a blue-cheese sauce so thin it couldn’t coat a celery stalk, and Santa Fe shepherd’s pie—macaroni in a Velveeta-like sheath of Monterey Jack over ground beef. Steak fajitas were better but don’t alone merit the trip to Astoria. Nothing to see here, folks: Better mosey on through.
22-36 31st St
|Cross street:||between Ditmars and 23rd Aves|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu 11:30am–11pm; Fri 11:30am–midnight; Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 11am–11pm|
|Transport:||Subway: N, W to Astoria–Ditmars Blvd|
|Price:||Average main course: $20. AmEx, MC, V|