North End Grill (CLOSED)

Danny Meyer brings his Midas touch to Battery Park for this instant classic. The place has all the hallmarks of a classic Meyer joint: effortless, affable service; a warm, buzzy space with top-notch acoustics; and Continental cooking that’s easy, accessible and tasty, too. Former Tabla toque Floyd Cardoz leaves his stamp on the menu, devoting an entire section to eggs and adding generous doses of fire and spice. You might start with evanescent cod throats meunière,before moving on to excellent composed plates: wood-fired lamb loin shingled on a bed of stewed chickpeas flavored with mint, or a flavor-packed flaky roasted halibut in a spiced broth. Desserts, by Alexandra Ray (Gramercy Tavern), are crowd-pleasing, but not predictably so—the sticky toffee pudding is elevated by a shot of Glenlivet.