Nyonya

Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz
Beef rendang at NyonyaThe perpetually packed Nyonya serves our favorite rendition of this Malay staple dish. The supremely tender beef here is simmered low and slow in a fragrant mixture of clove, cinnamon, lemongrass and coconut milk. You could cut t
Little Italy
Bright, clean Nyonya is a model of Chinese-Malay efficiency: The cheerful staff zooms customers through seating, eating and paying up—to make room for the next batch. (The Brooklyn branch is just as busy.) Take in the charm of the bamboo-hut interior while you can; dishes like roti canai, nasi lemak (coconut rice) and battered, fried whole fish drizzled in spicy-sweet sauce will be a delicious distraction. The only downside to a speedy kitchen that serves everything piping hot: burning your tongue while wolfing it all down.
Venue name: Nyonya
Contact:
Address: 194 Grand St
New York
10013
Cross street: between Mott and Mulberry Sts
Opening hours: Mon–Thu, Sun 11am–11:30pm; Fri, Sat 11am–midnight
Transport: Subway: B, D to Grand St; J, M, Z, N, Q, R, W, 6 to Canal St
Price: Average main course: $7. Cash only
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