Bright, clean Nyonya is a model of Chinese-Malay efficiency: The cheerful staff zooms customers through seating, eating and paying up—to make room for the next batch. (The Brooklyn branch is just as busy.) Take in the charm of the bamboo-hut interior while you can; dishes like roti canai, nasi lemak (coconut rice) and battered, fried whole fish drizzled in spicy-sweet sauce will be a delicious distraction. The only downside to a speedy kitchen that serves everything piping hot: burning your tongue while wolfing it all down.
194 Grand St
|Cross street:||between Mott and Mulberry Sts|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu, Sun 11am–11:30pm; Fri, Sat 11am–midnight|
|Transport:||Subway: B, D to Grand St; J, M, Z, N, Q, R, W, 6 to Canal St|
|Price:||Average main course: $7. Cash only|