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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz
Beef rendang at NyonyaThe perpetually packed Nyonya serves our favorite rendition of this Malay staple dish. The supremely tender beef here is simmered low and slow in a fragrant mixture of clove, cinnamon, lemongrass and coconut milk. You could cut t
Washington Heights

Nyonya is a model of Chinese-Malay efficiency: The cheerful staff zooms customers through seating, eating and paying up—to make room for the next batch. The only downside to a speedy kitchen that serves everything piping hot: burning your tongue while wolfing down delicious dishes like roti canai, nasi lemak (coconut rice) and battered, fried whole fish drizzled in spicy-sweet sauce.

Venue name: Nyonya
Address: 5323 Eighth Ave
New York

Cross street: at 54th St
Opening hours: Mon-Thu 11am–11pm; Fri–Sun 11am-11:30
Transport: Subway: Subway: N to Eighth Ave
Price: Average main course: $20. Cash only
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