Chef Norio Shinohara turns Japanese cuisine on its head at this low-profile spot. Though the brick-walled dining room is spare—MoMA-worthy lamps wrapped in billowing white paper illuminate wooden tables—the food verges on high art. Raw quail eggs quiver on tuna tartare; salmon arrives in the shape of a swollen rose; and black codfish, marinated in miso, rests on a bright-green bamboo leaf. As for the booze, keep it simple and opt for one of the sakes.
113 Thompson St
|Cross street:||between Prince and Spring Sts|
|Opening hours:||Daily 6pm–midnight|
|Transport:||Subway: C, E to Spring St; N, R, W to Prince St; 6 to Spring St|
|Price:||Average main course: $26. Four-course prix fixe: $80. AmEx|