Phoenix Garden

Here’s proof that you don’t have to schlep to Chinatown to get the good stuff. Noteworthy Cantonese comestibles at this midtown spot include potent mustard greens floating in a dark pork broth, sea bass with black mushrooms and savory casseroles—one standout features oysters and bean curd. The sense of discovery provided by the clandestine basement digs ought to hold you over until your next adventure south of Canal.