Piccola Venezia

Time may seem frozen at 34-year-old Piccola Venezia, whose boisterous, brightly lit main room calls to mind a ’70s catering hall. But tradition can be a good thing. The ravioli di zucca—plump pockets filled with pumpkin puree, swathed in brandy cream sauce—are irresistible. Meatier entrées, like the tender braised lamb shank with gnocchi in a mushroomy deep-brown sauce, are delicious, but leave little room for the delectable house-made gelati or biscotti. Make time to linger over coffee; the sweets are worth it.