Steve Hanson’s grandiose marble-walled meat parlor is as classic as it is crowd-pleasing. Without history, lore or a celebrity chef, though, it feels like a Vegas version of a New York steakhouse. The food was decent, if gimmicky: A two-tiered raw-bar platter piled high with assorted shellfish was impressive, but crass. Steaks arrived cooked precisely how we ordered them, though Luger fans may pine for its drenched-in-fat porterhouse. An irresistible “big-kid” ice-cream split with bourbon-soaked bananas is one excess we’d return for.
381 Park Ave South
|Cross street:||at 27th St|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Wed 11:30am–11pm; Thu, Fri 11:30am–midnight; Sat noon–midnight; Sun noon–11pm|
|Transport:||Subway: 6 to 28th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $37. AmEx, Disc, MC, V|