Rosco's Pizzeria

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Photograph: Virginia Rollison
Meatball Pie
Crown Heights

Chef Jonathan Greenberg earned his dough-spinning bona fides at new-school pizza greats Franny's and Paulie Gee's. After a stint at Barboncino, the pizzaiolo teamed up with restaurateurs Clay Mallow and Wade Hagenbart (Gueros Brooklyn, Dram Shop) to roll out this ode to the time-honored Brooklyn pizza parlor: a 20-seat joint rigged with black vinyl banquettes, a tin ceiling, and a video-game table loaded up with Donkey Kong and Pac-Man. Here, Greenberg updates Italian-American classics with high-end ingredients, crafting New York–style pies with organic flour, San Marzano tomatoes, and Coluccio's meats and cheeses. As at any proper red-sauce spot, Greenberg honors his grandmother's meatball recipe, here made with grass-fed beef and stuffed into subs or deposited atop pies. He rounds out the simple menu with more heros (chicken Parm, sausage and peppers), as well as salads (Caesar) and antipasti (fried risotto balls). To drink, choose from beer (Miller High Life, Southern Tier IPA), wine and root beer (Sprecher) on tap; plus, the spot offers to-go growlers to take out with your pie.

Venue name: Rosco's Pizzeria
Address: 685 Franklin Ave
Cross street: at Prospect Pl
Opening hours: Mon–Thu, Sun noon–11pm; Fri, Sat noon–midnight
Transport: Subway: Franklin Ave S to Park Pl
Price: Average pizza: $17. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V
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