David Rockwell held nothing back in his design. Exhibits A through D: a grand, curved staircase; Buddha statues everywhere; a giant Pop-Art Mao print overseeing the joyful chaos; and managers gliding through the semidarkness, muttering seating strategy into Secret Service–style earpieces. It’s Kill Bill: Vol. 1 refracted through a Moulin Rouge lens. Savory teriyaki-glazed Chilean sea bass satays and barbecued-duck dumplings barely touch the lazy Susan before they’re devoured. Spicy garlic chicken with Shanghai noodles and stir-fried filet mignon with chow fun and black-bean garlic sauce are shareable entrées. Desserts are notoriously luscious: The giant Bento Box Dessert Sampler is a medley of East-West abstractions like coconut-chocolate maki rolls and “toro” sashimi, made with strawberry jelly candy.
|Venue name:||Ruby Foo’s||Contact:|
|Cross street:||at 49th St|
|Opening hours:||Sun–Wed 11:30am–midnight; Thu–Sat 11:30am–1am|
|Transport:||Subway: N, R, W to 49th St; 1 to 50th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $18. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V|
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