Tucked into the side pocket of an unremarkable hotel lobby is a lively, colorful spot for no frills, competently prepared, reasonably priced seafood. Tuna tartare is seasoned deftly with cilantro, red onion and lime juice, but served in an unceremonious mound. Pan-seared salmon is mild and flaky, and fillet of black sea bass, roasted simply in lemon-herb oil with its crisp skin intact, remains juicy and light. Executive chef Rene Cuzco seems less inclined to challenge customers than to provide agreeable, modern comfort seafood.
|Venue name:||Salmon River|
3 E 40th St
|Cross street:||between Fifth and Madison Aves|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Fri noon–10pm; Sat, Sun 5–10pm|
|Transport:||Subway: 42nd St S, 4, 5, 6, 7 to 42nd St–Grand Central|
|Price:||Average main course: $19. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V|