The Tuscan-inspired menu at this Soho stalwart doesn’t try too hard to impress, yet it does. Vigorously seasoned fillets of branzino (Mediterranean sea bass) are browned to a crisp, so the skins are as nibblesome as fried chicken. The wobbly panna cotta trumps the omnipresent tiramisu. Expect owner Paolo Alavian to come to the table to inquire about your meal; more than likely, he’ll also wish you a good night when you leave. Some things never go out of style.
200 Spring St
|Cross street:||at Sullivan St|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Wed noon–11pm; Thu–Sat noon–midnight; Sun noon–10pm|
|Transport:||Subway: C, E to Spring St|
|Price:||Average main course: $27. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V|