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  • Photograph: Jolie Ruben

    Little Oyster Sandwiches at the Dutch

    Little Oyster Sandwiches at the Dutch
    At his New American tavern, Andrew Carmellini riffs on that old New Orleans sandwich staple, the fried-oyster po' boy, with this addictive bar snack. Squishy, sesame-speckled buns each cradle one fat, crispy mollusk, a petal of iceberg lettuce and a smear of tangy pickled okra sauce. 131 Sullivan St at Prince St (212-677-6200, thedutchnyc.com). $5.

  • Photograph: Daniel Krieger

    Brandade at Buvette

    Brandade at Buvette
    It begins with desiccated hunks of house-cured salt cod, brought to life in a bath of garlic-steeped milk. In a stunning display of culinary alchemy, the fish is whipped with top-shelf olive oil until it takes on the texture of cotton candy. Spread the featherlight brandade on a crusty baguette and you'll understand---the best things are sometimes the most humble. 42 Grove St between Bedford and Bleecker Sts (212-255-3590, ilovebuvette.com). $12.

  • Photograph: Virginia Rollison

    Kedgeree at the John Dory Oyster Bar

    Kedgeree at the John Dory Oyster Bar
    This old-English recipe dates back to Victorian times, when British cuisine was still an oxymoron. But a few iconic dishes were born during that dark age of dining, including this delicious Anglo-Indian mix of smoked fish, eggs and curried rice. April Bloomfield does her country's history proud with her smoky, buttery and spicy rendition, studded with flaky haddock and garnished with fried onions, rice, ribbons of omelette and lime. 1196 Broadway at 29th St (212-792-9000, thejohndory.com). $15.

  • Photograph: Jolie Ruben

    Scallop and bone marrow at Ai Fiori

    Scallop and bone marrow at Ai Fiori
    Michael White makes a case for the preservation of haute cuisine with this luxurious starter. In a long, hollow marrowbone, split lengthwise, White arranges alternating shingles of raw scallops and thick discs of black truffle, atop potato puree. Warm melted marrow, rich and thick, drenches the cheeky creation. Setai Fifth Avenue, 400 Fifth Ave between 36th and 37th Sts (212-613-8660, aifiorinyc.com). $24.

Photograph: Jolie Ruben

Little Oyster Sandwiches at the Dutch

Little Oyster Sandwiches at the Dutch
At his New American tavern, Andrew Carmellini riffs on that old New Orleans sandwich staple, the fried-oyster po' boy, with this addictive bar snack. Squishy, sesame-speckled buns each cradle one fat, crispy mollusk, a petal of iceberg lettuce and a smear of tangy pickled okra sauce. 131 Sullivan St at Prince St (212-677-6200, thedutchnyc.com). $5.

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