The Pretty Thai for a White Guy award: Kin Shop

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  • Photograph: Marianne Rafter

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    Massaman curry with goat at Kin Shop

  • Photograph: Marianne Rafter

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    Pan fried crab noodles at Kin Shop

  • Photograph: Marianne Rafter

    kinshop80703

  • Photograph: Marianne Rafter

    kinshop80704

  • Photograph: Marianne Rafter

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  • Photograph: Marianne Rafter

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    Bone marrow at Kin Shop

  • Photograph: Marianne Rafter

    kinshop80707

Photograph: Marianne Rafter

kinshop80701

Massaman curry with goat at Kin Shop

Thai restaurants mostly fall into one of three categories in this town: run-of-the-mill takeout joints, Buddha-bedecked club canteens or outer-borough holes-in-the-wall. But this year, chef Harold Dieterle broke all the molds with his sophomore venture: a serene Thai-inspired eatery that strikes a peculiar balance between neighborhood haunt and destination restaurant. Dieterle did away with ho-hum standards (don't come craving pad thai) to channel Siam with spirited, intelligent riffs on the country's flavors. You won't easily find a salad of fried pork belly, fresh celery slivers and plump crispy oysters in Thailand. Nor would you encounter a plate of rare duck-breast slices served with flaky roti, a green mango julienne and fiery red curry sauce. But who cares? These plates have all the kick and panache of a wok warrior's best. Kin Shop, 469 Sixth Ave between 11th and 12th Sts (212-675-4295, kinshopnyc.com)

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