The Harrison (CLOSED)

Chef Amanda Freitag (Gusto) meets her match in restaurateur Jimmy Bradley at the seven-year-old Harrison, where she recently took the reins in the kitchen. The menu marries Freitag’s Italocentric résumé with the restaurant’s signature New American cooking. Fried baby artichokes featured ricotta, pea leaves, sweet peas and spring-onion puree; a lamb chop marinated in rosemary and anchovies hid under buttery carrots and fennel. The lush olive-oil cake was also on point, thanks to pastry chef Colleen Grapes, a Bradley vet. Like an auteur director, he inspires not just great performances, but a loyal cast, too.