Description
This upscale gem joins a small class of UWS restaurants that could justify a special trip uptown. Though the earth-toned look smacks of a hotel restaurant and service is dispassionate, the successful menu from chef John Fraser (Compass) has a rich, seasonal emphasis. Foie gras and butter infuse many dishes (monkfish, pillowy veal short-rib gnocchi), and meat, such as a charred sirloin accompanied by beef cheek lasagna layered with paper-thin slices of turnips, is equally hearty. Though the clientele skews local, Fraser’s permanent residence might change that dynamic.

Read our full review of Dovetail.