Description
Dining inside a supermarket doesn’t sound so appealing. It’s a wonder, then, that the 74-seat space, carved out on the second floor of Fairway, has been a culinary destination for five years. The draw is not just a menu filled with fresh produce from downstairs. Caterer Mitchell London—the man behind Burgers & Cupcakes and a personal chef to mayor Ed Koch years ago—returned to head the café and steakhouse last July after a two-year hiatus. One of the first things he did was drop the price of the three-course prix-fixe meal from $45 to $29—making it a superb value. Customers get a choice of salad, steak and dessert, but there are compromises. First, portions are larger on the à la carte menu (the steak is half the size if you order the prix fixe). Second, they don’t take reservations—you have to walk up a narrow, grimy staircase (you sure it’s up here?) and wait in line to get a table. A wall bearing wine bottles serves as the sole barrier between the organic grocery aisles and the white cloth-covered tables. Third, the menu is dominated by classic, if unexciting, American dishes. The good news: Burgers and pizzas are under $11, salads hover around $8.50, and chicken and fish entrées go for between $16 and $19. The bad news: The lettuce in the Caesar looked a little past its prime during one visit. The steaks ($34 à la carte) are USDA Prime and dry-aged, but they could use more trimming, and were underdone on one occasion. The wine list is scant, but there are several vinos by the glass—enticingly described—and the options are creative and varied. Not bad for a supermarket...but not great for a restaurant.