Description
This latest addition to the city’s burgeoning tapas-bar scene sits squarely on the traditional end of the spectrum. Ostia is typically Spanish: Note the pressed-tin wall, flamenco soundtrack and refrigerated bar-top display case. Tropical cocktails and a New York neighborhood vibe add a bit of New World charm. Serrano ham—aged 15 months and beautifully striated with fat—is hand-sliced at the table, while smoked-paprika–scented jus coats garlicky head-on shrimp. Suck out the heads with gusto, the way it’s done in Spain. Here’s to tradition.