What's wrong with this picture--and what's right? Here's how a suit should actually fit.
Wed Jun 11 2008
Most fancy occasions require a dark suit, unless it is a beach-style wedding. Even if you are a casual guy who rejects “dressing like The Man,” you should own one great dark suit. It is hard to go wrong with a nicely fitted navy two-button, flat-front suit from lines like Hugo Boss, Canali, Burberry, BCBG, Calvin Klein, etc. Start your search in the $400 price range and go up. —Ken Giddon, president of Rothman’s Union Square, rothmansny.com
The shirt sleeve should be about a quarter inch longer than the jacket. The sleeve should always cover your watch. —Tommy Fazio, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, bergdorfgoodman.com
The jacket should cover the seat of the wearer’s pants. —Guy Voglino, Brooks Brothers merchandise manager, men’s tailored clothing, brooksbrothers.com
Make sure that your belt and shoes more or less match and that you do not wear black wingtips with your casual pants, unless you are auditioning for a part in a movie. —Ken Giddon
All dress pants should hit at the shoe—there should be a small break—and they should always be cuffed. —Tommy Fazio
The collar should fit comfortably but shouldn’t gape; the fabric should lie flush against the skin. —David Hamilton, owner of Hamilton shirts, hamiltonshirts.com
Shirts should fit, but not be tight; they should just graze the skin. —Tommy Fazio
The cuff should rest on the hand midway between the thumb and wrist. This allows enough length to prevent the sleeve from pulling back when the arms are extended forward. —David Hamilton
Dos + Don’ts
• “Just like with the ‘refusing to ask for directions’ stereotype, men are hesitant to ask for or receive help in a men’s clothing store,” says Giddon.
• Look for quality construction, quality material and a fit that complements your body type. Remember that all garments are cut differently, and don’t assume that the most expensive option or hottest brand will work best for you. —Hamilton
• Once men reach their twenties they should probably own a tux. Do not borrow your dad’s old ruffled tuxedo shirt! If money is tight, invest in a very dark navy suit, which can usually pass if you purchase a formal-looking striped or silver tie to make the outfit work. —Giddon
• If you are attending an outdoor informal wedding, a crisp poplin suit would be completely appropriate; if the wedding is black-tie, however, a tuxedo is a must. If the wedding is in a more traditional venue (either day or night) a well-made wool suit always makes a statement. Be prepared; most wedding invitations will state the dress code. —Voglino/>