Marfa, Texas

Cibolo Creek Ranch

Photo: Dan Derouchie

Most people who encounter Marfa, Texas, for the first time have a similar reaction when they cruise into town on U.S. 90—they don’t get it. For the past few years, the town has scored some serious press for its thriving art scene. But under the backdrop of a bright blue sky, it’s hard to tell what all the fuss is about. Other than the stately Presidio County Courthouse, all you’ll see are some motels, a smattering of adobe-style houses, an aging Dairy Queen and empty sun-drenched streets. But like many gems, Marfa’s allure lies beneath the surface.

The Texas town of 2,400 is remote, to say the least: Getting there requires a solid three-hour drive from El Paso (one of the closest airports). Established in 1882 as a stop for the Galveston, Harrisburg and San Antonio Railways, the town reportedly got its quirky name (there’s some debate) from Fyodor Dostoevsky’s The Brothers Karamazov—a novel one of the railroad executives’ wives was reading. The hamlet endured numerous boom and bust cycles, but its current identity as an artist enclave began in the early ’70s when Donald Judd bought a block of former Army buildings and turned them into a permanent home for his art. Judd died in 1994, but the town (and his foundations) continues to draw the international art world, and sustains a steady stream of new artists who enliven the community with shows at more than 12 permanent galleries.

The Hotel Paisano

Photo: Dan Derouchie

One such influx comes by way of the Chinati Foundation and Judd Foundation’s annual open house (chinati.org), which will easily double Marfa’s population on October 6 and 7. Highlights of this year’s much-anticipated event include an exhibition by sculptor David Rabinowitch, a talk with architect David Adjaye and an exhibit of Judd’s “Lascaux Series.” Visitors can also see the Chinati collection and tour the Block—which includes Judd’s residence—and take in a free Sonic Youth concert.

But art isn’t the only reason to visit. The town has a variety of great eateries and an even richer social scene. Start by checking in to The Hotel Paisano (207 N Highland Ave at Texas St, 866-729-3669; from $99), a Spanish Colonial–revival structure designed by architect Henry Trost and completed in 1930. Manager Laura Dickson, who exudes the “live and let live” vibe of the town, extols the hotel’s history, pointing to rooms where Rock Hudson (No. 211), Elizabeth Taylor (No. 212) and James Dean (No. 224) stayed during the filming of the 1955 film Giant. One of the fastest ways to get acquainted is to stop for a cocktail at Jett’s Grill, located on the Paisano’s ground floor. Take drinks onto the patio or sit at the bar and meet real Marfans—besides art, one of the best reasons to visit. Welcoming and willing to chat, the tightly knit town’s denizens are a surefire way to open doors; by nightfall you’ll know most of the players.

Food Shark

Photo: Dan Derouchie

Another great choice is the Thunderbird Hotel (601 W San Antonio St, 432-729-1984; from $135), a ’50s-style structure sporting minimally designed modern rooms and a hip lounge

In the morning, locals congregate at Brown Recluse (111 W San Antonio St, 432-729-1811), where Marfa-roasted Big Bend organic coffee comes piping hot. Order the lightly spiced huevos con chorizo and eat it out on the front porch. Shopping in Marfa is a stretch (unless you consider the Dollar General), but if home accessories are what you’re after, you’re in luck. Dolores (103 W San Antonio St, 432-729-1966), the brainchild of Michelle Kirk, specializes in mod ranch furnishings and knickknacks (items range from $15 crocheted octopuses to $2,000 Eames chairs).

Dolores

Photo: Dan Derouchie

Scoop up a Marfalafel from Food Shark (432-386-6540, hours vary), a mobile café located across from the Marfa Book Company on oHighland. For dinner make it the funghi lasagne at Maiya’s (103 W Highland St, 432-729-4410), fashioned from homemade noodles.

There’s more to see just outside of town, like the brilliant mountain ranges and plateaus of Big Bend country. The deep-pocketed can head 33 miles to Cibolo Creek Ranch (Hwy 67 South, 432-229-3737; from $450), where a working cattle ranch is home to three 19th-century adobe forts. Activities include horseback riding and Indian cave exploration, and you can also visit the ruins of the nearby ghost town of Shafter.

Chinati Foundation

Photo: Dan Derouchie

As night falls, witness the weird phenomenon known as the Marfa Lights (take Highway 67/90 for eight miles to the viewing center), strange balls of unexplained light that occasionally appear after dark—they’ve even been featured on Unsolved Mysteries. Oddities aside, head back to Joe’s Place (302 E San Antonio St)—the locals call it Ray’s—where a sympathetic ear will hear you out. And your new friend may even buy you a beer.

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THE TAB

Three nights, one person

Flight 300
Rental car (with gas) 164
Hotel 528

+

Meals 250

TOTAL

1,242

TRAVEL TIME 9hrs