On a hot day, it can be an uphill struggle getting to this picturesque museum, but it's worth every step. The former residence of a Ukrainian princess, the building itself is a work of art, but the real treasures are to be found within, distributed among its palatial rooms. Some of the jewels of the collection are missing following a dramatic daylight robbery in August 2007, during which paintings by Breughel, Monet and Sisley were snatched, but the scope and calibre of what remains is nonetheless impressive. The chronology ranges from 15th-century altar pieces through 18th-century greats like Fragonard to some wonderful Impressionist paintings and Rodin's imposing sculpture, The Kiss, which overlooks an ornate marble staircase. It's all very grand, and yet at the same time refreshingly low key. Be sure to have a little stroll in the gardens afterwards.