In a rare quiet corner south of the Place de la République, Le Barav might not stand out at first sight, full as it is with a professional crowd perched on bar stools or seated at low tables, working through the standard brasserie menu and selection of wines from small producers at reasonable prices. So far, so everyday – so why the busy crowds?
It might be a little out of the way, but Le Barav has other things to recommend it. The prices are more than reasonable – €12.50 for a steak tartare, €10 for a plate of pasta – the €14 confit duck pie is the most expensive dish. If you haven't reserved or got there before 6pm, you'll need to hang about for a table to eat, maybe snacking on spicy pork terrine while you wait.
The wine list is drawn from the Barav wine store just next door, run by a knowledgeable team who recommended a complex, powerful, tannin-heavy Château de la Selve Serre de Berty 2009 to go with our dinner. Bottles from the cave are available for an extra €5 corkage fee. The food doesn’t quite match the wine’s quality, but the friendly atmosphere and the staff’s enthusiasm make Le Barav an excellent all-rounder.