In the hip Château d’Eau area, here’s a cocktail bar that gives its cutting edge neighbours a run for its money. Tony Conigliaro, joint owner with Thierry Daniel and Eric Fossard, knows what he’s doing: he’s also opened 69 Colebrook Row and Zetter Townhouse in London. The hook here is re-introducing France to its old-fashioned spirits, with a mixologist’s expert twist: Chartreuse or liqueur d'ambrette via London, Berlin or New York.
Try Lipstick Rose, a girly mix of rose vodka, raspberry and violet syrup and Peychaud’s Bitters (created in 1830 by an apothecary from Saint-Domingue who moved to New Orleans). Or a kir royal enlivened by liqueur d'ambrette, or a Spitfire, a twist on a Boston Sour with Merley cognac, peach extract, lemon, brown sugar and white wine. There are 12 mixes on the menu, at a slightly eye-watering €11 a throw.
Black walls, comfy sofas and dim lighting host temporary exhibitions of work by 70s-influenced artists, with a soundtrack of 70s ambient electro that ranges from Serge Gainsbourg to Grace Jones via Fela Kuti. The shelves behind the bar are stocked with vintage bottles of Chartreuse, Vermouth, cognacs and other rare liquors, all enhanced the speakeasy vibe.