Chez Nénesse

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The original ‘Nénesse’, the owner Ernest, has moved on – but his replacements, a friendly family from the Le Sart area, are keen to maintain tradition, keeping the sign and the name. It’s a really old-fashioned restaurant, where time stopped somewhere in the 1960s – mismatched tiled floor, retro fittings, uncovered wooden tables dressed with pink tablecloths in the evening, ancient oil-fired stove. A simple approach that also shows in the food: bistro style at lunchtime and restaurant-quality come the evening.

Chef Roger Leplu, a Michelin-starred master previously at Chez Pierre, knows his stuff. Lunch is cheap (starters for €3.50, dish of the day €9.50), dinner reasonable (starters €8 to €16, mains €17 to €22, desserts €9), and the cooking does credit to traditional French recipes like stewed snails with mushrooms, Lyon-style pike dumplings, braised calf's head with gribiche sauce (chopped boiled eggs, gherkins, capers and herbs) and pear charlotte. There’s also a large choice of aperitifs, wines and after-dinner drinks: all in all, a pleasant and friendly place to get back to basics.

The 50 best dishes in Paris

This restaurant serves one of Time Out's 50 best dishes in Paris. Click here to see the full list.

Venue name: Chez Nénesse
Contact:
Address: 17 rue de Saintonge
3e
Paris

Opening hours: Du lundi au vendredi de midi à 14h30 et de 20h à 22h30
Transport: Métro : Filles du Calvaire, Saint-Sébastien - Froissart ou Rambuteau
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