In a small, clean room with only a few paper birds for decoration, Kiku is as clever, precise and refined as origami, rejecting both celebrity-baiting hipness and sushi-by-numbers cooking. Instead, there’s an understated vibe and a €35 set menu, which on our visit kicked off with two tiny amuse-bouches: one minced beef salad and one smoked aubergine, immediately setting the standard for the fantastic food cooked by chef Kyoichi Kai from the island of Kyushu. Then prawn tempura and Kiku-style sashimi, duck fillet with balsamic sauce, salmon en croute with mushrooms – all highly accomplished and delivered by assured and efficient service. There’s a great Sake menu, but dessert isn’t included in the set menu, which is the same at lunch and dinner. The set menu doesn’t change at midday, so for a slightly cheaper deal head to Simplement Kiku instead, which offers bentos and other dishes to take away.
56 rue Richer
|Opening hours:||Mon-Sat 12noon-2.15pm, 7pm-10.30pm|
|Transport:||Métro : Notre-Dame de Lorette, Grands Boulevards ou Cadet.|