Christian Etchebest opened Le Troquet, a popular basque bistro on the left bank, several years ago, now followed by its ‘canteen’. The addition is certainly more modest than the original, but also friendlier, a bit of an oasis of bonhomie in the aloof neighbourhood of Pernety. You can’t reserve, so make sure to come early especially if you’re a group, and be aware that there’s no set menu either. Instead, you choose your dishes from a big blackboard; it's regularly brought up to date, even if Etchebest’s cuisine never forgets where it comes from, maintaining its love for the cuisine of the southwest, though touched by the expertise of L’Hôtel Martinez in Cannes and the Crillon in Paris.
A bit of a ‘nose to tail’ exercise, the Cantine du Troquet lets no part of the pig go to waste. Shoulder, ear, chest, fillet cut into slivers with Espelette pepper, the famous black pudding, terrine, slices, gratin or however else they can dream up: you’re in good hands here when it comes to pork,and the meats often come with house fries with sea salt and herbs. For the rest, the chef also turns out masterful fish dishes (hake, turbot, Pollack and more, with a delicious ratatouille), and the desserts are the classics of French cuisine, with evocative names like ‘baba au rhum’, ‘feuille à feuille’ or ‘Paris-Brest’. The dishes never go above €20, and the wine list is full of discoveries. Plenty of good reasons to find yourself deep in the 14th arrondissement.
This restaurant serves one of Time Out's 50 best dishes in Paris. Click here to see the full list.